A good game-based sauce takes time and patience, as chef Jonas Baumgärtner knows well. And, to make sure the dish is worth the wait, he also puts together a delicious dish of wild boar loin with chanterelle mushroom pasta – which goes perfectly with the sauce. After all, patience must be rewarded.
When making sauces, savvy home cooks often call on little shortcuts and aids – and why not? Stock by the bottle, bouillon cubes and thickeners dramatically reduce cooking time. However, if you want to whip up a truly homemade sauce, you’ll need time and patience. Jonas Baumgärtner, who runs two restaurants under the name “Der wilde Wirt” in Ulm and Markbronn, showed us how to do it. Once finished, you can keep the sauce in the fridge for several days or even freeze it.
And, to make sure the efforts are worthwhile, Jonas prepares a wild boar loin with chanterelle mushroom pasta as a perfect accompaniment. After all, all that hard work must be rewarded.
Let’s get started!
On the menu today, we have wild boar loin with a challah bread crust and chanterelle mushroom pasta – and the perfect game sauce.
- 2kg game bones
- 4 red onions
- 3 white onions
- 2 garlic cloves
- 3 large carrots
- 100g celery
- 1.5 liters red wine
- 3 liters water
- 1 liter cola
- Oil for frying
- 3 sprigs of rosemary
- Salt, pepper, sugar
Chop large bones into smaller pieces. Fry the bones in a little oil in a large roasting pan. Place the pan in the oven and roast for 2 hours at 160°C (320°F) on the convection setting. Then roughly chop the vegetables, add them to the pan and roast for a good 30 minutes.
Transfer the bones and vegetables into a large pot. Deglaze with the red wine, adding gradually and allowing it to reduce each time. Add the water and cola and reduce. Use a ladle to skim off the foam and turn down the heat under the pot. Add the rosemary.
Leave the sauce to simmer gently for a few hours with the lid on, so that all the ingredients release their full flavor. If it’s taking too long, you can pause at this stage, leave the sauce to cool and then continue the following day.
At the end, allow the sauce to simmer further with the lid off to allow it to reduce further, which helps to achieve the desired consistency and intensify the flavor. Pass the sauce through a coarse sieve. Then heat and reduce by half again, pass through a fine sieve and season generously.
Wild boar loin ingredients
- 1 wild boar loin (approx. 600g)
- 3 slices of challah bread
- 2 tbsp. breadcrumbs
- 100g butter
- 1 tbsp. honey
- 150g chanterelle mushrooms
- 350g fettucini
- 100ml cream
- Chives, rosemary, thyme
- Olive oil
- Salt, pepper
Remove any sinew and fat from the loin and briefly sear on both sides. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Chop the challah bread and combine with the breadcrumbs. Chop the rosemary and thyme and mix in. Melt the butter and add to the mixture. Season with salt, pepper and honey. Spread the mixture over the boar loin and press it into the meat. Place the meat in the oven at 80°C (175°C) until it reaches a core temperature of 54°C (129°F) – use a meat thermometer to get this right.
Cook the pasta in salted water until al dente, following the instructions on the packet.
While the pasta is cooling, sauté the chanterelles in a little olive oil, deglaze with cream and season with salt and pepper. Then add the chopped chives.
Drain the pasta and then stir it into the creamy chanterelle sauce .
Serve the boar loin with the chanterelle pasta and top it off with a little game sauce for a final flourish.
If you’ve ever wondered whether wild boar goes with tuna, you can find out more here.